Independent guide: This page is general guidance. Rope loads, clutch sizes and sheave diameters differ between boats; check your hardware before ordering.

Quick answer

Running rigging is every line that moves: halyards, sheets, reefing lines, outhauls, vangs, travellers, furling lines and control lines. It wears through UV exposure, chafe at sheaves and clutches, and repeated loading. Replacement is usually done line by line as each wears, or as a package when a boat is refitted or its use changes. A rigger adds value by matching rope construction and diameter to the hardware, splicing correctly, and spotting the chafe points that wore out the old line.

What wears first

Line Typical wear pattern
Main halyard Chafe at the clutch and at the masthead sheave where it sits at full hoist
Headsail sheets Cover wear at the winch and fairlead, UV on exposed sections
Furling line Chafe at the drum and leads; a failure here can leave a sail unfurled in a blow
Reefing lines Chafe at boom exits and where they turn at the leech cringle
Mainsheet Cover wear through blocks, stiffening from UV
Spinnaker halyard and sheets Heat damage from easing under load

For inspection detail see yacht rope chafe and running rigging.

Choosing the rope

  • Polyester double braid is durable, easy to handle and economical — a good default for sheets and control lines.
  • Dyneema-cored rope has far less stretch and suits halyards and high-load lines.
  • Covers vary in grip and wear resistance; the cover must suit your clutches and self-tailing winches.
  • Diameter must suit the sheaves, clutches and hands. Too thin slips in clutches; too thick jams sheaves and wears quickly.

See how to choose halyard rope and rope size.

Measuring for new lines

Measure the old line if you have it. Otherwise:

  • Halyard: about twice the hoist length plus the run from mast base to the cockpit and a working tail.
  • Sheets: from clew position around the winch with enough tail to reach both winches on a tack.
  • Reefing lines: along the boom, up to the reef cringle and back, plus the run to the cockpit.

Riggers often add a margin and splice to fit on the boat.

What a rigger adds

  • matching rope to hardware and loads
  • tapered halyards (cover stripped where it is not needed to save weight and reduce windage)
  • proper splicing rather than knots, which can halve strength
  • identifying damaged sheaves, sharp clutches or bad leads so new lines do not wear out early
  • colour-coding lines consistently for crew

Doing it by boat type

  • Catamarans have long mainsheet and halyard runs, often on a bridge-deck winch.
  • Racing yachts replace lines more often and use higher-modulus fibres.
  • Trailer sailers benefit from lighter lines and good mast-raising tackle.
  • Liveaboards prioritise durability and UV resistance over weight.

Cost planning

Running rigging is usually priced by the metre plus splicing and fitting labour. The cost estimator includes a running-rigging add-on, and a complete set of lines is often a meaningful fraction of a standing-rig replacement on smaller boats.

Frequently asked questions

How often should running rigging be replaced?

There is no fixed interval. Cruising boats in Australia commonly renew halyards and sheets every five to ten years, while racing boats may replace key lines every season or two. Replace a line when the cover is worn through, the core is exposed or damaged, it has stiffened badly from UV, or stretch is affecting sail shape.

Can I replace halyards myself?

Often, yes. With the old halyard still in the mast you can butt-join a messenger line to it and pull the messenger through, then use it to pull the new halyard in. The risks are losing the line inside the mast and fitting the wrong diameter for the sheaves and clutches, so check both before ordering.

Is Dyneema worth it for halyards?

For many boats yes, because a Dyneema-cored halyard stretches far less than polyester, holding luff tension and sail shape. The cover must suit the clutches and winches, and the line is more expensive, so many cruisers use Dyneema for main and headsail halyards and polyester for sheets and control lines.