Independent guide: This page explains the work so you can plan and compare quotes. It is not a substitute for an inspection of your boat by an experienced rigger.
Quick answer
A complete re-rig replaces the standing rigging — every shroud and stay, with new terminals — and uses the opportunity to inspect everything the old rig was attached to. On most keelboats the mast is unstepped so the rigger can work on the masthead, tangs, spreaders and mast step at ground level. The work finishes with a dock tune, a sea trial and a follow-up re-tension after the rig settles.
Why owners re-rig
Most re-rigs are triggered by one of five things:
- Age. Stainless-wire rigs are commonly reviewed for replacement at around ten years, and many insurers ask about rig age. See how long standing rigging lasts.
- An inspection finding. Broken strands, cracked swages, rust weeping from terminals or bent fittings.
- A change of programme. Preparing for offshore passages, a Sydney Hobart campaign or a long cruise north.
- A purchase. Many buyers re-rig a used boat when the rig age cannot be documented. See buying a yacht with old rigging.
- An event. Grounding, knockdown, collision or dismasting.
The re-rig, step by step
1. Survey and quote
A good rigger looks at the boat before quoting: rig configuration, wire sizes, terminal types, spreader geometry, furler model and chainplate condition. A quote built only from boat length is an estimate, not a scope.
2. Unstepping
The mast is lowered by crane, usually at a marina or boatyard with a mast crane. Furler, halyards, wiring and boom are disconnected first. See mast stepping and unstepping.
3. Strip and inspect
With the mast on trestles the old rig is removed and each fitting examined: masthead tangs, sheaves, spreader roots and tips, the mast base and step, the gooseneck and every fastener. This is when hidden corrosion between stainless and aluminium tends to appear.
4. Measure and build
New stays are measured from the old ones — adjusted for any stretch — or from pin-to-pin measurements on the mast. Wire is cut and terminals swaged or fitted. Typical materials are 1x19 stainless, compact strand, rod or synthetic; the choice depends on the boat and its programme. See standing rigging materials.
5. Related work
This is the cheapest time to service the furler, renew running rigging, rewire the mast, replace masthead lights and instruments, and pull chainplates for inspection.
6. Restep and tune
The mast is restepped, the rig pinned on and tensioned to the designer's or rigger's figures, and the mast checked for column and rake. See rig tuning.
7. Sea trial and re-tension
New wire and terminals settle in the first few sails. A proper re-rig includes a re-check after the first outing in a breeze.
What a re-rig quote should show
| Line item | What to check |
|---|---|
| Wire or rod | Material, construction and diameter for each stay |
| Terminals | Swaged or mechanical, and brand |
| Toggles, pins, turnbuckles | New or re-used, and material |
| Crane and hardstand | Included, or charged by the yard directly |
| Furler | Re-used, serviced or replaced; foil cut to new forestay |
| Chainplates | Inspected, re-bedded, replaced or excluded |
| Tuning | Dock tune and after-sail re-tension included? |
| Documentation | Invoice with date, materials and sizes |
For current indicative bands, see what a re-rig costs and the size-specific pages for a 30-foot, 40-foot or 50-foot yacht.
How the boat changes the job
- Catamarans have deck-stepped masts on a compression post or beam, forestay bridles and often very large mainsails. See catamaran rigging.
- Trailer sailers can often be re-rigged without a crane. See trailer sailer rigging.
- Racing yachts may have rod or composite rigging, runners and checkstays. See racing yacht rigging.
- Classic yachts may use galvanised wire, spliced eyes or bronze fittings. See classic yacht rigging.
Records to keep
Keep the invoice, the rigger's inspection notes and any photos of the mast fittings. Record the installation date on the boat's maintenance log. Those three documents answer the questions insurers, surveyors and future buyers will ask. See yacht rigging records.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a complete yacht re-rig take?
For a typical 30 to 45-foot monohull, the rigging work itself usually takes several working days once the mast is out, but the whole project often spans one to three weeks once crane bookings, hardstand time, parts lead times and weather are included. Rod rigging and custom fittings can add weeks of lead time.
What is included in a full re-rig?
A full re-rig normally includes new shrouds and stays with new terminals, and often new toggles, clevis pins and turnbuckles. Crane hire, hardstand, chainplates, furler work, running rigging and electrical work are frequently quoted separately, so check the scope line by line.
Is it worth re-rigging an older yacht?
Often yes, because the rig is a structural safety system and its condition strongly affects insurability and resale. The decision should also weigh the condition of the chainplates, mast, deck and hull structure, since a new rig on tired attachments does not make the boat sound.
Can I keep my old turnbuckles when re-rigging?
Sometimes, but many riggers recommend renewing turnbuckles, toggles and pins with the wire because they share the same fatigue history and are a small part of the total cost. Bronze turnbuckles in good condition are sometimes re-used after inspection; bent, galled or cracked fittings should not be.