Independent guide: Mast-raising methods vary by design. Follow the builder's or class association's procedure for your boat.
Quick answer
Trailer sailers have deck-stepped masts that pivot on a tabernacle or mast-foot pin so they can be raised and lowered at the ramp. That makes them unusual: the rig is loaded, unloaded and bent far more often than on a keelboat. The lower terminals, toggles, pins and forestay attachment take the most punishment. Check them every time you launch, carry spare clevis and split pins, and replace stays on condition rather than waiting for a calendar date.
Australia's trailer sailer fleet
Australia has a strong trailer-sailer culture, with many locally designed boats from the 1970s onwards still sailing alongside newer imports. Many older boats have original or unknown-age rigging and chainplates. See classic Australian production yachts.
Raising systems
| System | How it works | Rigging implications |
|---|---|---|
| Tabernacle | Mast pivots in a hinged box on deck | Check the pivot bolt, box and deck mounting |
| Mast-foot pin | Mast pivots on a pin at the step | Check pin wear and the hole in the mast heel |
| Gin pole | Pole gives leverage for forestay tackle | Check pole fittings and the tackle |
| A-frame | Frame from the chainplates adds control | Reduces side-sway; check attachments |
What to check before every launch
- Lower swages and toggles for kinks, cracks and broken strands
- Clevis pins and split pins or rings, all in place
- Forestay and its fitting at the bow
- Shroud chainplates and their deck bedding
- Mast-foot pin or tabernacle bolt
- Halyards free and not wrapped around spreaders
- Spreader tips secure and boots in place
Common trailer sailer rigging jobs
- Standing rigging replacement, often without a crane
- Swaging new stays to match original lengths
- Running rigging upgrades and leading lines aft
- Adding a furler — see furler installation
- Chainplate re-bedding on older boats — see chainplate replacement
Towing and storage
On the road, the mast should be supported at several points, halyards secured against flogging, and stays coiled without tight bends. Salt left on fittings between trips corrodes terminals and pins; rinse the rig with fresh water after each sail.
Costs
A trailer sailer re-rig is usually one of the more affordable rigging jobs because there is often no crane or hardstand involved. See re-rigging a 25-foot yacht.
Frequently asked questions
How often should trailer sailer rigging be replaced?
More often than a keelboat left rigged, because the stays are slackened, bent and re-tensioned every time the mast is raised or lowered. Inspect the lower terminals at every launch, and plan standing-rig replacement on condition, with many owners renewing well inside ten years if the boat is used often.
What is the safest way to raise a trailer sailer mast?
Use a gin pole or A-frame with a tackle or winch so the mast is controlled throughout, keep the shrouds attached so the mast cannot fall sideways, and have a second person watch the forestay and any snags. Check the mast-foot pivot pin and tabernacle before each raise.
Why do trailer sailer stays break at the bottom?
When the mast is lowered, the stays go slack and are often bent sharply at the lower swage or chainplate. Repeated bending fatigues the wire at the terminal. Toggles at the lower ends allow articulation and reduce this, and careful handling during raising and lowering makes a big difference.